Winter in Czech lands

Conner returned to Iowa on the 29^th. We were sad to see him go. It was so nice to have him around. Part of New Years Eve was spent with our downstairs neighbors David and Monica. At about 10 pm we went back to our apt. and for the next three hours we were entertained or irritated with the continuous sights and sounds of exploding fireworks. It was the longest and loudest we had ever experienced. It is a real custom in Europe to set off fireworks for New Years and they are legal everywhere. January came and brought the coldest and snowiest winter on record. We could have stayed in Iowa! We just finished the one week winter intensive English language school that is sponsored by Pam's department at the Science Faculty. Pam did her usual teaching and introduced the Czechs to Bingo,..complete with white elephant prizes. Ken gave a tour in English of the Archbishops museum. On Thursday evening, we had the final party. Ken joined the vice dean’s band with his banjo to play a dose of old American folk tunes sung in Czech and a few Czech workers songs and folk songs. Thanks to all of you who called or wrote over the holidays. It keeps us grounded. We love you all and the journey continues. I am attaching a few pictures of the snow, just so you know that we are suffering snow withdrawal after leaving Iowa! It got down to 0 today,..almost a record for here.

Christmas

Pam and I spent the holidays here in CZ . In mid December Conner came over to spend time with us. Our first family excursion was to the big Christmas market in Nurnburg, Germany. It was Iowa winter cold there but the city was so enjoyable we hardly noticed. The Christmas market here has been an annual event since 1610. It takes up most of the old downtown and is policed for quality. Only local handmade items, German artist made things are allowed. No Chineese socks or Korean made Christmas decorations. The regular stores carry that stuff. All the food must be locally produced and hot food prepared on premises. Good quality and beautifully made. Pam, Conner and I spent several hours inspecting the goods and tasting the food. Its only about a 7 hour drive from Olomouc so a return trip may be in the offing next year. The next day we all went to the German history museum and ended up spending the whole day there. It has one of the finest collections of medieval sculpture and painting around. Additionally there are collections of antique furniture, arms and armor, folk art, and contemporary German painting. About mid afternoon Pam and Conner left Ken to his own devices and the two went to the coffee shop where Pam taught Conner how to knit. By the time we got home the next day he had nearly finished a fine neck scarf. Nurnburg was badly damaged during WWII but they have reconstructed it with great care and pride. It deserves a warm weather inspection. Upon our return Conner was asked to participate in the big Christmas pageant at Svaty Kopecek( it means saints hill) which is a big 300 year old Baroque pilgrimage church on the hill north of town. On Christmas day evening the pageant was performed outdoors in the cloister behind the church and in a misty rain around 1000 people showed up to watch. Conner played an angel with panache, and got to sing a solo… We Three Kings,.. He was a hit. The rest of the songs were Czech carols that we had never heard before. After the Christmas play was over there was a sing along in the small chapel behind the stage. Conner sang "Angels we have heard on High" and taught the choir the chorus. He also sang "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire." He was great. We went home while Conner stayed with the directors and a few of the crew for beers. After Christmas we went to visit our friends Radka and Ivo near Ostrava. Ivo is a good skier and agreed to take Conner sking in the Beskid Mountains. They went and Pam and I and Radka went to a fine painting exhibit at the Ostrava art museum. Good food, good wine, good friends. It was a wonderful Christmas and only would have been better if Quentin and Alana were here. But they were in Toronto with her parents. I guess that is what happens when children grow up,…maybe next year we will all get to be together again.

Domazlice

For our late fall trip Pam and I decided to go to western Bohemia to a small beauty of a town called Domazlice near the German border. We got a pension, small hotel, in a restored 16th century house. This kind of stuff thrills me no end. It was run by a young family. Otto, Wendy, and their daughter Jennifer made our stay very pleasant and comfortable. The area the town is in is called the Chodsko area and is famous for its beautiful folk costumes(kroj) and painted pottery. The town museum has a wonderful collection of them. The town itself, though small, has great old buildings, some good restaurants, and post card views. We also toured the countryside where we saw castles and vistas of the mountainous border country (border with Germany) A leisurely trip home with a few more castle and old church stops made for an interesting historic and long weekend.

Fall Road Trip

Fall in the Czech Republic was cool sunny and beautiful. Pam and I took some time and went to Poland. We visited some small towns just across the northern border of CZ in an area of Polish Silesia that we had heard was not so affected by WWII. We crossed the border near the town of Cerna Voda and Kraliky for those following on a map and went north to Klodzko, Poland. We spent the day exploring the town which is reputed to have the oldest stone bridge in Poland. We came ,we saw, we crossed. The old town center has wonderful old buildings and the remains of a castle on an overlook above the town. We visited a beautiful old 13th century gothic church full of fresco paintings. Some of the original sculpture was on a side porch which thrilled me to no end. Had a good meal , hit a few antique shops, and headed for Swidnica, Dzierzoniow, and Walbrzych. I put these three towns into one bag because they were all disappointing. Not much to recomend them. The last of the three was claimed to be a reconstructed factory town with a great old centrum. It was dirty , crudy, full of traffic, and smelly. We lit out and found a fine little pension out in the middle of nowhere, near Nowa Ruda. The owner spoke english among other languages and was funny and entertaining. Good food, good wine, good sleep. Interesting journey.

Well Conner came for Xmas and fixed the problem. Thank God for Children! So we are back in business!
And now the rest of the story. The first day of cousin Frantisek's birthday consisted of a dinner and dance with family in a local restaurant. Excellent food, drink, and conversation with translations by Frantisek's son David and others. To end the evening we all got into a big crowded circle for one last dance, a kind of traditional celebratory folk dance with everyone involved. The next day after a visit to the local art museum to see a brilliant display of 19th century czech landscape painting, we went out to the country winding down dirt roads into the big woods where Frantisek and family have a weekend cottage. The second part of the birthday celebration took place here. There was much beer, wine, slivovice , great food aplenty, and friends, family, and Franta's old team mates from the Hlinsko soccer team with whom he used to play professionally. They of course arrived already pre oiled up. Much fun with singing dancing eating and conversation. A wild and wooly evening. Excellent!
At the end of September our friends Jim and Jan Henderson from Cedar Rapids and Jim's sister Anna came to the Czech Republic on a hunt for relatives. A successful one I might add. After a visit to the big flea market near Prague we headed south to the town of Strakonice which we used as a base of operations. The village of Dobravice nearby was the family home. With help from an english speaking cousin of Jims they met many relatives. After a trip to Olomouc and a visit to Prague they returned happy and full of good memories.
Well that brings you up to the middle of Oct. I will give you Nov and Dec. on the next post! Hopefully this afternoon! Stay warm where-ever you are!